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Activity Funded

Investigating the impact of blooming on polyurethane-coated fabrics to support conservation decisions in fashion and design collections

Análise do impacto de eflorescências em tecidos revestidos com poliuretano para apoiar medidas de conservação em coleções de moda e design

Reference
2023.11375.PEX
Project Start Date
2025-02-20
Project End Date
2026-11-19
Principal Investigator
Scientific Area
Humanities
Funding Program
Concurso de Projetos Exploratórios em Todos os Domínios Científicos 2023

Abstract

Polyurethane is well documented as being one of the most problematic synthetic polymers to preserve [1-15]. Previous studies carried out by the InBloom team have identified thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) as a common coating for fabrics [3-6]. These multilayer fabrics are used for various purposes: imitation and patent leathers, and glossy-, waterproof-, sport-, and metallic-look fabrics, that are widely applied in fashion and design collections. Over the years, museum professionals have struggled with the conservation of these coated fabrics in cultural heritage [3-6]. One of the main conservation issues is the presence of so-called blooming, a degradation phenomenon commonly recognised as a white crystalline deposit on the surface [1,2]. The prevalence of ester-based TPU coating formulations since the 1960s adds an additional layer of complexity, as these are highly susceptible to hydrolysis [9,16-22], and particularly prone to blooming, with key research by members of the InBloom team [3-6]. The white colour of the deposits significantly impacts the aesthetic and the consequent display of fashion and design objects [3-6], and the lack of comprehensive guidelines leaves collection care professionals uncertain about effective mitigation strategies. For the first time, InBloom will address this imperative need in museums, aiming at supporting conservation decisions. InBloom benefits from a robust network comprising team members with solid expertise on plastics and textiles, and substantial preliminary research. A set of 4 research tasks will be followed: Task 1. Tackling blooming in TPU-coated fabrics through published and unpublished sources . This task will combine chemical, industrial and conservation knowledge through literature review, online survey, and visits to textile industries and collections. T1 will allow the identification of stratigraphies and production methods, and the collection of existing information on causes of blooming and previous attempts to treat it. This goal will be supported by team members from NOVA, MoMu, MUDE, Met, and UA. The main outputs of T1 are a Glossary of terms for TPU-Coated Fabrics, the state-of-the-art, and a Sample Library. Task 2. Identifying blooming in TPU-coated fabrics in fashion and design collections . This study comprises a systematic and comprehensive analytical approach to the chemical nature of blooming, with visual and molecular characterisation. Based on the analyses of representative case studies with blooming, its occurrence and composition will be correlated with coated-fabric manufacture and stratigraphy. Another important outcome of T2 is the creation of a Blooming Atlas, a database of blooming images. The analytical data will be collected by NOVA, Met, GCI and DM team members, with solid expertise in molecular characterisation [4-8,23-33], and in close collaboration with collections. Task 3. Investigating the impact of blooming on fabrics and evaluating conservation strategies. This task will contribute to expand the knowledge on the impact of blooming and conservation strategies on TPU-coated fabrics, which is so far non-existent. Through the analysis of a selected set of previously treated case studies and samples, T3 will tackle for the first time 3 main questions: Is blooming causing instability? Should blooming be removed? And can blooming be prevented? The knowledge produced will serve as a basis to support future conservation practice. T3 is supported by NOVA, Met, GCI and DM, with key research in assessing conservation strategies [8,12,31,34,35], along with collections. Task 4. Connecting with stakeholders: sharing the perspectives of designers and collection care professionals on blooming, and dissemination of outcomes . This final task will promote the collection and dissemination of knowledge by engaging and involving stakeholders. It will focus on evaluating the impact of blooming on curatorial decisions, as well as understanding designers' perception and ownership of their work after blooming occurs. This will be done through interviews. It will also focus on the dissemination of knowledge and initial recommendations in a Research Symposium dedicated to InBloom, where lectures, a roundtable and a workshop will take place. T4 is supported by all partners, being coordinated by MUDE and NTU, with wide network of stakeholders and experience in documenting design intent [4,36-41]. The dissemination plan includes different target audiences: academia, heritage professionals, and designers, aiming at sharing the exploratory results to a wider community. InBloom will contribute to the defeat of insecurity reported by conservators when dealing with blooming, with an immediate and positive impact on conservation science and conservation practice. This fosters the development of informed conservation and curatorial practices to preserve TPU-coated fabrics in Cultural Heritage for current and future generations.

Institutions

Main Institutions

  • Universidade Nova de Lisboa Associação para a Inovação e Desenvolvimento da FCT (NOVA.ID.FCT)

Other Institutions

  • The Getty Conservation Institute (GCI)
  • Deutsches Museum (DM)
  • The Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET)
  • MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp (MoMu)
  • MUDE - Museu do Design e da Moda - Câmara Municipal de Lisboa (MUDE)
  • Laboratório José de Figueiredo (LJF/MMP)
  • Nottingham Trent University (NTU)
  • Universidade de Aveiro (UA)

Funding 49.936,44 €

Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT) - Portugal

49.936,44 €